The Pros and Cons of Gel Extension Manicures

While both gel extensions and acrylics can be used to create a similar effect, there are a few key differences. The most important is the application process. With an acrylic application, the nail artist has to mix a liquid called a monomer and a powder polymer to actually mold the top layer of the nail. There's a strong chemical odor and lot of dust that comes with the process, plus some imperfections that come with manually molding the nail. "Gel-X has no strong monomer smell and can be applied quickly and with very little mess," say Tokyo, and the Gel-X overlays are already shaped.

Acrylic nails are also much thicker and harder than gel extensions, which makes them less comfortable to wear. Plus, the removal process is much more labor-intensive with acrylics, and can be damaging to the natural nail since they need to be buffed off, which weakens the nail underneath.

First, the nail technician will do the prep-work of any manicure — filing, cleaning, and buffing. Tokyo then matches the Gel-X forms to each nail, and pre-files them so that they're perfectly fitted to your nail shape. Your natural nail will then get a layer of pH bonder (to dry the nail) and a layer of nonacidic primer to make your nails sticky. Then the natural nail gets a layer of clear gel polish, which cures under the LED lamp for 30 seconds.

Next up is the application of the actual Gel-X nail form. Tokyo scrubs the underside of the Gel-X tip for better adhesion, then adds a drop of the gel and presses the tip onto the nail at a 45-degree angle. She'll then flash-cure each nail under the lamp for 15 seconds. Once the whole hand is complete, you'll fully cure under the LED for 30 seconds. Now it's time for the fun part — polish.

According to Tokyo, the lifetime of your extensions depends on how well they were prepped and applied. You can expect them to last anywhere from two to four weeks. This will also be dependent on how you use your hands, and how fast your nails grow.

Tokyo says that, yes, the Gel-X system is safe as long as the products are properly applied and removed. Of course, in the same way as regular gel manicures, if you decide to peel off your manicure or improperly remove them, you'll likely see your natural nails weaken over time. However, overall, gel extensions are considered much safer than acrylic nails since they don't include harsh chemicals like methyl methacrylate and toluene, or the cloud of dust created in the acrylic process.

There have been recent discussions on social between people who have experienced a gel-x nail allergy. This is a potential risk if you are gel curing press-ons and not taking proper precautions. As nail tech Corey Weber puts it: "The most important element with gel curing press-ons is to ensure that the nail is properly cleaned with alcohol and absent of any bubbles during the curing process. If lifting or pockets occur under the press-on, moisture can become trapped and cause a potential infection or 'greenie,' which is a bacterial infection."

This can also happen on your natural nail if the gel-x color you choose isn't clear enough, because that makes it difficult for the LED light to penetrate through the press-on to cure the builder gel. This might lead you to develop an allergy to gel nail products if the uncured gel is left on the surface of your nail.

The only other potential downside of a Gel-X manicure is the rare occasion when one or more of the tips pop off soon after getting them. "I have seen some nail artists complain about their Gel-X sets popping off in a few days," says Tokyo. "What you need to remember is that proper prep is key in applying Gel-X. And while Gel-X certainly is a much easier skill to pick up when compared to acrylic or hard gel, that doesn't mean it doesn't require any practice for a nail artist."

That's why you want to make sure to go to a reputable nail salon or technician who regularly does Gel-X manicures — and don't be afraid to go back to them if one pops off. Beyond that, there really isn't a downside to a gel extension mani, says Tokyo. Overall, it's a great way to achieve long, strong nails — and play around with nail-art trends.

This is really the beauty of gel nail extensions. "Since they are made from 100 percent soak-off gel, they can be quickly soaked off with acetone," says Tokyo. The same way you would remove a gel manicure, the nail tech (or you at home) should file off the bulk of the Gel-X tip and polish, and wrap with an acetone-soaked cotton round. You'll soak them for about 20 minutes, or until you can easily push off the remaining gel.

Aviel Kanter is the director of branded content for Vox Media, and oversees lifestyle content across the portfolio of brands. She manages a team of editors that writes articles in the wellness, fitness, beauty, fashion, health, entertaining, pets, and finance categories. She is also a beauty enthusiast and contributes many articles to the PS Beauty editorial site.

Renee Rodriguez is a staff writer and social producer for PS. She writes across all verticals, but her main areas of expertise focus on fashion and beauty content with an emphasis on reviews and editor experiments. She also produces social content for the PS TikTok and Instagram accounts.